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Looking for feedback, ideas, etc. Puled the seats, belts, console (it was not attached) carpet out today to see what I really had. I need to scour the floor clean, fix the bad, paint & install the Dynomat before I put everything back. I need to run new speaker/power wires to the back. Ideas, thoughts and observations are welcome.The good.



The bad


The ugly


Loose unpainted & not really attached well

Don I hate to say it, but it looks likes you need to get with Jeff and have him walk you though his experience with floor patch panels. On the plus side you only need patch panels and not the whole floor like he did. And you've got a great topic for your next how to article after you finish the welding segment. From what I can tell in the pics the front pass. side looks more like surface rust and nothing serious. The 2 rear foot wells look like they only need some holes welded up or maybe some small panels fabed in. That drivers side foot well on the other hand!!! I think it's time to call D&R or Tamraz for a patch panel on that one.

I'm a big fan of 3M stripping wheels, 4" diameter by an inch thick, 1/4" shank. Chucks into a die grinder nice, surface speed at 10k is outa this world, will take rust off ultra fast but not hurt the remaining steel.
I hate sandblasting, makes such a mess.

Hopefully cleaning the surface rust off both sides won't reveal too much swiss cheese.

I've got steel left from the lowest part of the floor where you have the rust through on the drivers side. I fabed a part of the reinforcement/body mount that has the saw tooth edge. The partial floors I used had enough steel to go up in the toe board. I didn't think mine was too bad until I sandblasted, so much was pinholed and thin I just replaced both sides. In your case I might consider going the full floor due to tunnel damage depending on how the rest cleans up. I gotta agree with Jim on the mess sandblasting makes, not sure anything else does asgood of a job removing rust tho. I've never used the 3M pads. Feel free to call me if you have any questions, I'll try to walk you through.

Keep goung, get up under the dash , windows out..
If you have that on the floors, the moisture has come in somewhere to do the damage
The firewall seam , around the window and the bulk heads either side behind the fenders.

Pulling it pieces may have your baby off the road for some time Don!
Looks like there will be many more beer bottles in your garage..
I hope the rust is only where you have found it and the repair won't be that hard, floor pans themselves are bad enough without any hidden surprises.
Good luck with it!!

I think alot of that floor damage came from the feet of the drivers. I also think that if there were any major issues with the windshield etc it may have been fixed by the previous owner when he did the body repair. Given that this car isn't seeing much rain in the future I'm not sure I'd lose sleep over it.

I did what we call at work the "first pass" on the passenger floor pan today. Seems solid but the surface is rusty. I'm thinking a coat of rust converter before the Dynomat once it warms up enough to paint.

The passenger side looks nice and solid Don!!
Not too many beers required to fix that side.....

I'm not a fan of rust converters after an experience I had with Mar Hyde One Step. What I would do with that floor is much farther than you want to go. If you go with a rust converter stay away from Mar Hyde.