Firstgens.com

This is going to be a long post. Let's be clear, I have yet to go to the track. My combo is a .040 over 350, forged crank and rods, Mahle Hyper pistons. 9.75 to 1 compression, fully machined, balanced, with Performer Rpm everything except for a 650 Vac. secondary Holley. (it should be a 750 or 800 but money is an issue right now) 3.55 posi rear end ( 10 bolt), 200r4 trans, with a shift kit, ARP bolts & studs, TCI Breakaway 2400 stall and 14" TA radials. Please don't tell me what could be better, it's what I have & will need to live with for a while. According to Edelbock the crate version of this makes 408 ft lbs. at 4500 & 410 Hp at 5500. From an idle and dead stop I can mash it, smoke them for 50-60 ft. and then about 10ft into second. It hooks straight and solid with Hotchkis springs, leafs, front swaybar, & Comp. Engineering subframe connectors. I have poly body mount/trans/engine mount bushings.
I want to go to the track this year and see what I can do as is. I'm thinking it should run mid to low 12's. I am also thinking I should shift at the torque peak or just past it if the trans will do that (B&M QUicksilver shifter). For best ET what you do & why?

This is the first problem to remove - either add weight, bigger tire, 90/10 front shocks, and/or install a traction device. Having a looser than stock t/conv makes the problem worst.
Next I would adjust the kickdown cable for full detent and let the trans shift itself. This action removes the human factor.
Some adjustment may be required tomaintain an upshift rpm of about 5200-5500 rpm, any place within this range.

Consistency is the key.

If it were me, I'd be more concerned with keeping the tires from roasting. Probably going to require at least a few passes to get used to it.

X2

So what you gents with far more experience are telling me is to go to the track, learn how it works, short of buying new stuff (that I know I need ) adjust the trans as best I can for a higher shift point, and work on being consistent, then as my wallet allows, work on my 60 foot times (with adjustments to the susp, tires etc.) In short there is no magic place in the curve to shift, it all depends on the entire package. Correct? I was thinking that shifting at or just above the torque peak (if possible) would result in the most mechanical advantage to get you down the track quicker, but I suppose if it won't hook that will just blow the tires away.

http://chicago.craigslist.org/nch/pts/1568757601.html
http://www.nittotire.com/

New MTs and BFGs are about this each. Just FYI.

Sorry Don. I just remembered you are running 14s.

Keep an eye out, they are listed once in awhile. Usually find the most listed in the fall.

I might have some 15s around you could use, let me know if you want me to check if I still have them.

Tim if you run across them just make a mental note where they are. I have to go this year, I feel like it would "consumate my marriage" so to speak, with my car.

I've got a set of these in 315/60/15s if you want to try to stuff them under your car.

In the meantime, I'll look and see if I still have that set of steel 15s around, and I'll leave getting the tires up to you.

Oh, and Don. If (And that's a BIG IF) I can get my car running better (I mean good) without dumping a ton more unnecessary funds into it. I will possibly take it to US41 for some fun for the same reason.