Firstgens.com

Here is some first gen Camaro/Firebird TKO info that may be of use to everyone here. It will be posted in 4 seperate parts due to length.:

Tremec TKO Installation and Tech Guide for 1967-69 Camaros & Firebirds
By
Hurst Driveline Conversions

We get a lot of great questions about the specific issues that are involved when installing a Tremec TKO transmission into a first Gen so we thought we would compile the answers in one place. This list should be pretty complete but there is always something new that comes up.


“1967-69 CAMARO/FIREBIRD SPECIFIC” TKO INSTALLATION INFORMATION

TKO Fitment
For the vast majority of first gen TKO installations, you will not run into any tunnel fitment issues. With that said there are a few issues that can make this installation a little more challenging. These potential issues include worn or crushed body mount bushings or a misaligned subframe.

Tunnel clearance issues
Although it is rare, we have seen examples where clearance is limited, or non existent, between the top of the transmission to the bottom of the floor pan. We have found that worn or crushed body mount bushings, non-stock shorter style body bushings, an incorrect transmission mount, incorrect motor mounts or motor mount perches, or floor sag are some of the reasons for this problem and in most cases can be easily corrected.

To determine if you have floor sag, first check to make sure your body mounts are in good condition, that you have the correct perches, and the correct motor mounts. If you still have clearance problems it could be that there is some floor sag. This is not an uncommon problem in a first gen Camaro/Firebird. A good indicator to detect floor sag is that you will have a difficult time removing the stock cross member without first removing or loosening the rear frame bolts. Also, severe floor sag can be detected by looking through the back window at the front bucket seats and see if they are tilted towards each other.

To correct floor sag there is a very unscientific yet very effective remedy that consists of a floor jack and a solid piece of 4x4 about 24” long. After the car is safely supported on stands, the 4x4 is placed in the factory stamped indentations in the floor that are there to accommodate the cross member. Next, position the floor jack in the center of the 4x4 and jack up the floor gently! You can move the 4x4 six inches at a time toward the front of the car until you get to the area where the floor angles up toward the firewall. Use caution doing this and go a little at a time. It is advisable to measure the floor position before you start and then after each time you attempt to correct the problem. You will be surprised at how easily the floor will move. It may be necessary to trim the front console bracket bolts to provide clearance for the forward transmission cover plate. ¼” of clearance between the floor and the transmission is all that is required for an acceptable fit. The tallest point on the transmission is the vent, Clearance at this point should be about ¼”. If you have any questions please call us

Misaligned subframe
Incorrect subframe alignment due to a collision or improper re-installation after a restoration can result in your shifter being positioned incorrectly within your stock center console. If your shifter does not fit within your console properly because of sub frame misalignment, you can talk with us about purchasing an optional Hurst Blackjack shifter with a custom offset to correct this. Although it usually does not warrant concern, a misaligned subframe can also result in incorrect driveshaft fit.


Shifter Location & Center Consoles
The dead center of the stock 4-speed shifter hole in the floorboard of a 68-69 Camaro/Firebird happens to be 17 3/8” back and from where the transmission mounts to the bellhousing. Also, the hole is offset to the driver’s side by ¾” from the centerline of the tunnel. 1967 models have the same offset from center (3/4”) but the center of the stock hole is 1 ¼” further forward when compared to the ‘68-69 models. In other words the center of the hole for the ’67 is 16 1/8” back from where the transmission attaches to the bellhousing.

When using the stock Tremec shifter, that is included with the transmission, the shifter stub will not be exactly “dead center” in your stock console but it will be very close. By simply unbolting the stock shifter, rotating it around 180*, and then re-installing it on the transmission, you will position the shifter 16.75” back from the front of the transmission. With slight modifications to the floorboard and to the plastic shift tunnel piece (the piece that extends from your console shift plate down to your carpet) this position will work for 67-69 Camaros/Firebirds. These modifications are relatively minor and are effectively undetectable.

If you do not want to make any of these modifications and you are looking for a performance oriented shifter, Hurst Drivelines has optional low-profile shifters available for ’67 models as well as 68-69 models with the proper offsets for dead center shift stick position within your stock console. Additionally, due to the lower profile of these shifters, the shifter fits underneath the floorboard and console which means there are no console or floorboard modifications required.
If you do not have a center console, most people will elect to use the stock Tremec shifter that is included with the TKO. This shifter is a nice piece – it is built by Hurst for Tremec.
You can view several pictures of TKO’s installed into various car models using both the Tremec shifter and the offset shifter.

Crossmembers
The TKO transmission is longer than the stock Muncie or automatic transmission found in older cars. When creating our TKO kits, to make the installation easier and to achieve a driveline angle that is within tolerance, we have designed a custom crossmember especially for the first generation Camaros & Firebirds. Modifying your stock crossmember for use with a TKO is possible but it will involve cutting and welding of the crossmember and possibly re-drilling your frame rails as well making some floor pan modifications between the frame rail and floorboard. Using a custom TKO crossmember designed specifically for the first gen cars is a bolt-in situation that saves time and headaches, requires no modifications to your car, and achieves the proper driveline angle.

Depending on whether you have a big block or small block, there are two different crossmembers for the first gen Camaros. When installing a TKO, if you have a big block motor and you are using the stock big block motor mount perches which position the motor a bit closer to the passenger side of the car, you will need to use a special big block Camaro TKO crossmember. If you have a small block motor you would use the small block Camaro TKO crossmember.


Clutch pedals & linkage for auto to manual swaps:
The TKO transmission can use the stock clutch linkage found in a stock 4-speed car. When you are converting from an automatic to the TKO you will need to purchase a clutch/brake pedal assembly as well as the clutch linkage components. You have two options with regard for pedals and linkage. First, if you would prefer to work with original GM parts, you can these parts from a salvage yard. Alternatively, you can purchase a reproduction set of pedals and linkage – these parts are readily available in a kit format from the various Camaro/Firebird parts suppliers.


Hydraulic clutch linkage
Instead of using the stock mechanical linkage, you can use a hydraulic clutch set up with the TKO if you prefer. You can choose to use either a hydraulic master cylinder with a slave cylinder or a hydraulic master cylinder and hydraulic throw out bearing combination. It is critical to make sure to attach the hydraulic master clutch pedal push rod in the correct geometric location on the clutch pedal. A bracket designed to properly install the master cylinder to the firewall will need to be fabricated. The Hurst Driveline hydraulic clutch kit includes a custom firewall mount bracket designed specifically for the master cylinder installation.

As mentioned above, on the other end of the master cylinder you will install either a hydraulic throw out bearing or a hydraulic slave cylinder. The hydraulic TO bearing installs onto the front of the transmission and takes place of the clutch fork and stock throw bearing. The benefit to the hydraulic TO bearing is that it conveniently sits inside of the bellhousing allowing more room for headers.
The slave cylinder is installed onto the exterior of the scattershield with a mounting bracket that needs to be fabricated and uses the stock clutch fork and stock TO bearing. The benefit to the slave cylinder is that if you need to replace it you will not need to remove the transmission and bellhousing as you would with the hydraulic TO bearing. The tough part about the slave cylinder option is that it often interfers with headers.

GENERAL TKO INSTALLTION INFORMATION

Speedometer hook up
The TKO is set up to work with either your stock mechanical speedometer or an aftermarket electric speedometer. When using the stock mechanical speedometer gauge, the solution is to use a custom speedometer cable with an integrated adapter that is designed for use with the TKO. This set up will also come with the correct speedometer driven gear to match up with your rear gears and rear tire size. If you are using an aftermarket, electrical speedometer gauge such as an Autometer, you will use the electric speedometer pick up located on the passenger side of the transmission case. Simply plug in the correct pigtail adapter and attach the two wires to the correct leads from your electric speedometer gauge. If you are using an electric speedo, make sure to properly plug off the mechanical speedometer adapter hole with the correct plug (Tremec part #30360-1X). Custom speedometer cables and electric speedometer plug in kits are often available form the company that you purchased your transmission.


Driveshaft Length, Slip Yoke, and Ujoint Sizes
The TKO’s output shaft sits about 3/8” within the rubber dust boot that is part of the TKO’s rear seal. Knowing this, you should be able to see approximately 0” to as much as ¾” of the slip yoke shaft showing past the tip of the rubber dust boot. If you can see ¾” of slip yoke showing, this means that you actually have 1 1/8” (3/8” + ¾”= 1 1/8”) of slip yoke that extends past the tip of the output shaft. If the slip yoke is compressing the rubber dust boot, your driveshaft would be too long. If the slip yoke is just touching the tip of the dust boot, your driveshaft length is fine.

The TKO has a 31 spline output shaft and uses a C6 31 spline slip yoke. It is recommended that you use a Spicer brand slip yoke for best fitment.

The most common rear ujoint size found on a first gen Camaro is the 1310 size.

The proper driveshaft length when installing a TKO transmission into a ‘67-69 Camaro with a stock rear end is 47” from centerline of front ujoint to centerline of rear ujoint. The stock driveshaft diameter is 3”.


Choosing the proper driveshaft for your application
There are several factors that you need to consider when selecting the best driveshaft/slip yoke/ujoint combination – especially if you have a high horsepower motor or if you are using slick tires, nitrous or other power adders (superchargers, blowers, etc.). The following are general guidelines for driveshaft selection:
Generally speaking, if your car is mostly street driven (occasional street fun and mild strip action), has street tires (not slicks), and is under 500 HP, the stock size driveshaft (3” steel) and stock size rear ujoint (1310) will probably be adequate.
•If you are above 500HP with street tires, you should consider a 3.5” diameter driveshaft and the larger 1330 ujoint and 1330 rear pinion yoke.
•If your motor is producing more than 500HP and you have slicks, or if you are using a blower or nitrous, you should consider a 3.5” or 4” diameter shaft with 1350 ujoints. This will require upgrading to a 1350 pinion yoke to match the larger ujoints.
•Some people like to use aluminum driveshafts instead of steel. The aluminum driveshaft costs a bit more money but offers the following benefits: same strength as steel, 30%-40% lighter than steel, and can absorb vibrations better. If weight savings is not an issue a steel driveshaft should be adequate.

When in doubt, check with your driveshaft professional to select the proper combination for your needs.

Driveline & ujoint angles
When installing a non-stock transmission such as a TKO into a first gen, we occasionally receive questions about driveline & ujoint angles. Some of the questions that come up are: why do I have to worry about angles, aren’t ujoints supposed to solve angle problems? Or: I have a vibration, is it being caused by my driveshaft? The following rules of thumb and the attached link should help you understand ujoints and their limits and help you put your driveline together without problems.

Both the transmission output shaft (which includes the entire crank centerline of the engine) and rear end pinion should both be on the same angle (parallel, or as close as possible). The ujoints should have an EQUAL (within 1/2*) AND OPPOSITE (to each other) ANGLE of no more than 3.5 degrees. This is a perfect world setting, but we all know that's not always achievable. The closer you can get to these specifications the longer your ujoints will last. The farther from these settings you go, the lifespan of the ujoints is reduced and the possibility of vibration associated with them increases. This does not mean that you will have a vibration that you can feel if you are not right on these specs. The goal should be to get as close as you can. Ujoints MUST have at least a ½ degree angle to operate. A ujoint that is zero angled will not last very long. There are a lot of modified cars on the road with less than desirable ujoint angles and they run with no noticeable vibration but their lifespan will be shortened. Another thing to consider is spring wrap which is a very important thing to consider when diagnosing a vibration problem. There have been a lot of people who have incorrectly diagnosed a driveshaft vibration and have blamed the driveshaft when it isn't the problem at all. When accelerating and decelerating the pinion angle changes. When accelerating the pinion goes up, when decelerating the pinion goes down. This changes the ujoint angle drastically, especially at the rear. If your springs are weak or if you have a lot of horsepower with good traction, this can be a real problem because as the angle increases beyond acceptable limits the vibration gets worse. Try to get your angles as close as you can then worry about stabilizing the rear end if it becomes an issue. Have a look at the link here. It should help you further.
Thanks to the Driveline Doctors for this.
http://www.drivetrain.com/driveline_angle_problem.html

One other thing to consider is driveshaft RPM and length. The faster a driveshaft spins and the longer it is there is a greater possibility of the “skipping rope effect” to occur. This is very dangerous as the drive shaft will want to fold in half and we don’t need to talk about why this is not a good thing. Make sure you talk to your supplier about your intentions with your car. The supplier of your drive shaft will work with you to get the correct length and material thickness for your application.


Clutch Fork Alignment & Throw Bearing Adjustment
If you are using a stock GM bellhousing you will simply need to use a stock length throw out bearing, stock clutch fork, and stock ball stud. No clutch fork adjustments are required.
If you are using a scattershield you will need to make sure your clutch fork and TO bearing are properly adjusted. Using an adjustable TO bearing and/or an adjustable ball stud will help you achieve the clutch fork angle that is required.

Pilot Bearing Removal
Pilot bearing/bushing removal can be accomplished in different ways. Packing grease behind the bearing to press it out is one method but here is a tool we found that makes the job clean and easy. Visit http://www.springertool.com to purchase this specialty tool. Click here for a picture: http://www.springertool.com/files/3sizes_1.jpg.


Bellhousing Alignment
Before installing your new Tremec TKO transmission, it is important to make sure that your bellhousing or scattershield is properly aligned with the centerline of the crankshaft. The alignment process is called “dial indicating”. If using an old stock GM bellhousing or a Lakewood scattershield, dial indicating is necessary before installing your transmission. If you are using a Quicktime scattershield or a Hurst Driveline reproduction aluminum bellhousing and your motor has not been line bored, checking alignment is not necessary as these scattershields are built to within .005" of the crank centerline (the max required run out for installing a TKO)***. A bellhousing that is not centered with the crank can result in poor shifting, clutch engagement problems, worn pilot bearing, as well as accelerated wear on the transmission itself.

Unfortunately checking the alignment can be a tedious task, especially if the engine is still in the car. To check for proper alignment, you will need a dial indicator, some basic tools, and a bit of patience.

Checking bellhousing alignment

http://www.hurst-drivelines.com/files/G ... 15-09A.pdf

Before installing your new TKO transmission, it is important to make sure that your bellhousing
or scattershield is properly aligned with the centerline of the crankshaft. The alignment process is called “dial indicating”. If using a stock GM bellhousing or a scattershield (blow proof bell housing), dial indicating is necessary before installing your transmission. The Hurst Driveline bellhousings and the Quicktime scattershields are built and checked to be
within the manufacturer’s specifications (.005” tolerance). If you are using one of these
bellhousings and your motor has not been align bored, in theory, dial indicating is not
necessary as these units have been built and checked to be within the required Tremec
tolerance***. However, checking any bellhousing for proper alignment is a good idea. Installing
a bellhousing that is not centered with the crank can result in poor shifting, clutch engagement
problems, worn pilot bearing, as well as accelerated wear on the transmission itself.
Unfortunately checking the alignment can be a tedious task, especially if the engine is still in the car. To check for proper alignment, you will need a dial indicator, some basic tools, and a bit of patience.
Checking bellhousing alignment
1. Make sure that dowel pins and the mating surface of the engine block are clean and free
from dirt and/or paint. Next, mount the bellhousing securely to the engine block. If using
a scattershield be sure to mount the block saver plate as well. Torque all bellhousing-toengine
bolts to specification.
Note: If using a scattershield, make sure that the dowel pins protrude out far enough to
let the scattershield and block plate fit on the flat part of the dowel (not on the tapered
part of the dowel). If the scattershield is resting on the tapered part this will cause
inaccurate measurements. It may be necessary to tap the stock dowels out far enough
to allow this. Alternatively, you can purchase longer dowel pins if required.
2. Install magnetic dial indicator base on the flywheel/end of crankshaft and adjust the dial
plunger so that it contacts the inside edge of the register bore of the bellhousing (Fig. 1).
If you need to create space for the dial indicator base to sit flat on the flywheel, remove
two of the flywheel bolts that are directly across from one another. Please note that the
dial indicator base does not need to be dead-centered on the crank during this process
but it must be solidly mounted. If you do not have a dial indicator, Summit Racing has an
inexpensive one with a magnetic base for about $30 (Summit part #SUM-900016-1).

3. Once you are ready to measure, there are two steps in aligning your bell housing.
The first step is to see what direction the bell housing is out of spec. Remember
zero is the spec and .005” is the out of spec tolerance. The second step is to see how
far out of spec the bell housing is and how far you need to move it to be within the
.000”- .005” spec.
Step One:
Determine if bellhousing is in, or out, of allowable alignment tolerance
First start out with the dial indicator anywhere in the circle - it is not necessary to start at
any given point. Rotate the engine (crank) until the needle on the indicator moves to the
right. The needle moving to the right indicates that the bellhousing is getting closer to the
centerline of the crank shaft. Continue rotating the engine until the indicator stops
moving to the right and starts to move backward. Stop at this spot and put a mark on the
bellhousing at this point. This is the point of the housing that is closest to the centerline
of the crank shaft. For example: If the indicator finds the closest point to be at 2:00
o'clock you would need to move the housing in that direction to correct the mis-alignment
(i.e. towards 2:00 o’clock and away from 8:00 o’clock). After completing this step, you
will know which direction to move the housing to correct an out-of-tolerance misalignment.
Step Two:
Determining how far the bellhousing needs to be moved if the bellhousing is out
of allowable alignment limits (greater than .005”).
After finding the closest point to the centerline of the crankshaft from step 1, set the dial
indicator to “zero”. From this point forward as you rotate the crank, the needle on the
indicator should move only to one side of zero. If it moves to the positive side of zero,
you must re-zero the indicator as described in step 1. After rotating the crank (and
therefore the dial indicator) 360* and watching the read out on the indicator, if your
maximum measurement (needle movement) is .010" or less, your bellhousing is within
allowable tolerance. If this is the case you are finished with this process and can
proceed with your installation. If your indicator readings show more than .010", your
belllhousing is NOT within allowable tolerance and you will need to correct it with offset
dowel pins as described below. To understand how far out of tolerance your bellhousing
is, take the highest reading on the indicator and divide this number by two. For example:
If your maximum read out is .016", .016 divided by 2 is .008". In this case a set of .007"
offset dowel pins will be able to correct the alignment to within .001". Offset dowel pins
are available in the following sizes: “.007, .014” and .021”.
Tremec, GM, Ford, Chrysler and most other manufacturers specify a maximum
misalignment, or “runout” of .005". If you have more than .005” runout you will need to
correct this by using offset dowel pins. If your reading is .005” or less, your bellhousing is
within tolerance and you are finished with this process. If you have between .005” –
.040” misalignment, you can correct the misalignment by using the correct size offset
dowel pins. If this is the case with your bellhousing proceed to step #4. If your
misalignment is greater than .040” you have either measured incorrectly or there is a
problem with your bellhousing and it will likely need to be replaced.

4. To correct misalignment, you will need to use offset dowel pins. These dowel pins come
in various sizes. Select the offset dowel pin set that is closest to 1/2 of the runout reading
(i.e. if runout is .016” then 1/2 of .016” = .008”; in this instance you would select .007”
dowels). If your runout is .014” you would use the, .007” dowels. If you are at .010”, you
also use the .007” dowels as they are closest. We recommend RobbMC Performance
Products (http://www.robbmcperformance.com) for a good set of adjustable dowel pins.
5. Before installing your dowel pins It is important to mark each dowel at it’s highest point
which will help you to install them correctly. You can use a permanent marker and your
dial indicator to do this. Doing this will assist you when you install the dowels to keep
them clocked the same as each other. When you install and position your dowels they
should be set with your marked high points clocked at the same position as your closest
to center of the crankshaft mark that you made on the bellhousing in step 1. For
example: If your closest to the center line mark is at 3 o’clock then your markings on the
dowels should be at 3 o’clock.
6. To remove the stock dowel pins drive them through from the front of the car towards the
rear using a brass drift or by using gripper pliers or vice grips and pulling them out.
Properly clean engine block dowel pin holes and lightly coat with lubricant.
7. Lubricate new offset dowel pins and install them into engine block. Remember, you must
find the high spot on the dowel with the dial indicator and mark it so the dowels can be
installed equal to one another. Refer to the adjustable dowel pin installation instructions
supplement included with this manual.
8. Install bellhousing and torque bolts to specification. Re-mount the dial indicator and
recheck runout by repeating step #2. Small corrections can be made by loosening the
bellhousing bolts and turning the dowels with a wrench to bring the bellhousing within
limits.
Congratulations – you have completed an important step.
*** If you are using a McLeod scattershield and you choose to check alignment, do so
without the silver register ring installed in the register hole – checking alignment with this
ring in place will give you a false reading.
These installation notes are provided to help you with the installation process. To the best of
our knowledge, this information is accurate; however it is in no way guaranteed. Every car is
unique and will represent unique challenges. There is no guarantee of proper fitment in your
particular vehicle and you need to take responsibility for your own installation. When
installing your transmission, be sure to follow proper torque & alignment specifications. Also,
it is important to follow proper break-in procedures. Classic Motorsports Group is not
responsible, in any way, for any damage, financial or otherwise, to you or your vehicle.
RobbMc Offset

To correct a misaligned bellhousing, RobbMc offset dowel pins are designed for easy installation into your engine block and provide for a much simpler bellhousing alignment process.
1. After determining the direction the bellhousing needs to move, remove the bellhousing and
existing dowel pins from your engine block. In most cases, it is possible to drive the existing
dowels out of the block from the front side using a blunt punch and a hammer. If the front of the dowels cannot be accessed for whatever reason, the dowels can often be removed by twisting and pulling with vice grips. If this fails, the pins can sometimes be removed by drilling and tapping the ends of the dowels and using a slide hammer. If the pin is in a blind hole, it may also be possible to drill and tap all the way through the pin and then drive a screw through the pin. As the screw comes in contact with the back wall of the blind hole it will push the pin out as the screw is turned.
2. Before inserting the pins into the block, make sure the allen screws in the pins are not tight or the pins will not slip into the block. Insert the dowels into the block with the slit end of the dowel facing towards the block. The dowels should be a slip fit (or perhaps a very light press fit) into the block. If the pins do not slip in check for burrs on the pins and/or in the holes in the block. Insert the pins into the block until the offset prevents the pins from going any further.
3. Rotate the pins so that the offsets of the pins are pointing in the desired direction. Note that the two flats machined into the pins are parallel with the pin's offset. If necessary, an open end wrench can be used to turn the pins. The flats on the two pins must be parallel to one another (i.e. the pins must be rotated to the same angle) or the bellhousing will not fit over the pins. Tighten the allen head screws in the pins lightly (just enough so that the pins won’t move accidentally while installing the bellhousing).
4. Re-install the bellhousing and check for alignment using your dial indicator. If the bellhousing is still not within specification (.005”), loosen the bellhousing bolts and rotate the dowels slightly using an open end wrench. Re-tighten the bellhousing bolts and recheck the alignment.
5. Once the bellhousing is aligned within .005”, hold the dowels in place with an open end wrench and tighten the allen head screws to secure the dowels and lock them in place. Do not over tighten the allen head screws (8 lbs. of torque maximum). If the dowel pin needs to be turned again, the screw can be loosened and the pin can be turned to a new angle. It is not necessary to remove the pin from the block to reposition it.
6. If it is not possible to achieve proper alignment, pins with a different amount of offset may be required. Call us if you need a different set of dowels.
For questions, please call Hurst Driveline Conversions at 760.438.2244

GENERAL INSTALLATION TIPS

Before installing your transmission, make sure that the shifter can be moved into all gears properly and that the transmission can be turned freely by turning the input shaft with your hand. It is possible that the shift forks could have been knocked out of alignment during shipping. This is very rare but important to check and easily correctable.

Plugs, Wires, and Adapters
• The two brass studs on the driver’s side of the transmission case are the leads for the reverse light switch. Your kit includes a convenient plug-in pigtail connector available for an easy connection to your existing reverse light switch wires.
• The wires & plug located at the tailshaft on the driver’s side is the neutral safety switch harness. If you choose to not use a neutral safety feature you can: a) tie off the harness with a zip tie; b) cut the wires at the base of the switch – the switch itself will act as a plug; c) remove the harness and replace it with a brass plug. Alternatively you can make the switch functional by tying it into the starter motor and/or clutch pedal.
• The black sensor/plug on the passenger side is the electric speedometer sensor. If you are using an electric speedometer we have a convenient pig tail connector.
• The rubber plug on the lower, driver’s side of the tailshaft is the mechanical speedometer adapter location. To install your speedometer cable and adapter, remove the rubber plug, insert the adapter, and secure with the ¼”x 20 x 12 coarse thread screw that is provided with your speedometer cable/adapter. Do not overly tighten this bolt. Make sure to apply grease to the inside of the gear where it slips on to the adapter.
If you plan to use the electric speedometer pick-up instead of a speedometer cable, it is important that you properly plug and seal the mechanical speedometer adapter hole. Included in our electric speedometer kit is a plug, bolt and lock washer specifically for this. You can also find this plug at your local Ford dealer (part #F2UZ7H183A).
• There is a rubber, protective “donut” on the output shaft that needs to be removed before you can install your slip yoke. Be careful not to damage the rear seal when removing this piece.


Other Useful Information
• You will notice a part number of 3550 on the outside of your shipping box as well as on the metal ID tag that is bolted to your transmission case. This number identifies that your TKO is from Tremec’s 3550/TKO family of transmissions. You will also notice your specific Tremec TKO500 or TKO600 model # on the metal ID tag. Part #TCET5009 = TKO600 (.64 5th); TCET4618 = TKO600 (.82 5th); TCET4616 = TKO500. Please make sure that this tag identifies the transmission that you ordered.
• You should check all threads on all threaded holes and bolts before you begin your installation.
• When bolting shift handle to shifter stub, torque to 25 ft-lbs and use moderate strength thread lock.
• If you are installing your transmission and engine as a unit, consider removing your transmission crossmember. This should give you a better angle when using your engine hoist. Also, having your car high on jack stands will help to give you a better installation angle.
• If you are converting from an automatic and you need to cut a hole in your tunnel to accommodate the shifter turret, consider using a 4” hole saw for a clean installation.
• For the transmission-to-bellhousing bolts, Tremec recommends tightening these bolts to 60-80 ft-lb. Because it is difficult to tighten a traditional hex head bolt in the upper, right mounting location, using an allen head bolt is a good solution. The bolt size for these mounting locations is: 1 ½” X ½” X 13 (coarse thread).
• The transmission mount-to-transmission case bolts require using 10mm coarse thread bolts.
• Before installing your new transmission it is advisable to test fit the clutch disc on the input shaft of the transmission for smooth operation. This will insure that there will be no problem inserting the input shaft during transmission installation. When installing transmission to bellhousing, if engagement is difficult or you find resistance in the transmission seating all the way in, it may be a clutch alignment or a pilot bushing/bearing problem. DO NOT force the transmission into the bellhousing using the transmission bolts. This can cause damage to the clutch disc or pilot bearing/bushing and may even break the transmission housing. Attach the clutch linkage and depress the clutch pedal slowly while sliding the transmission forward. This will help to align clutch disc with the input shaft and pilot bearing. Next, tighten bolts to 60-80 ft-lbs. If you find that there is resistance within the last ½” or so of installation, it may be that the bronze pilot bushing or steel needle bearing was damaged when it was installed. Use care and the correct tools to install a pilot bushing or bearing. Caution: At NO TIME should the transmission be allowed to hang in the bellhousing without being seated all the way in with at least one bolt in hand tight to ensure it does not slide out. Allowing this to happen can result in serious damage. Have an assistant hold the transmission in place while the clutch pedal is being depressed to correct alignment and properly seat the transmission.
• When using a Chevy roller pilot bearing, make sure that the “sealed” side of the bearing is facing towards the transmission. Pontiac pilot bearings do not have a “sealed” side and can be installed with either side facing the transmission.


Torque Specifications*
• Flywheel bolts; 7/16" fine (grade 8): 60 - 65 lbs.
• Flywheel bolts; 1/2" fine (grade 8): 70 - 75 lbs
• Pressure plate; 3/8 coarse (grade 8): 35 - 40 lbs.
• Bell housing to engine block; 3/8" coarse (grade 5 or higher): 35 lbs.
• Transmission case to stock GM bellhousing; 1/2" coarse (grade 5 or higher): 65-70 lbs.
• Transmission case to steel scattershield; 1/2" coarse (grade 5 or higher): 70-75 lbs.
*Unless otherwise specified by the fastener or hardware manufacturer.


Break-in and Maintenance
• Caution: There is no oil in your transmission - your transmission is shipped dry. To properly break in your transmission, first fill case with appropriate transmission fluid – approximately 5.28 pints. Fill through filler plug located on the passenger side of the transmission. Use Pennzoil Syncromesh (found at local auto parts stores) or GM Syncromesh part #12345349. In normal use cases a “fill for life” should be adequate. You can buy GM Snycromesh at any Chevrolet dealership. For severe use situations regular fluid changes should be prescribed.

• For break-in purposes, drive the car normally (No full throttle launches) for the first 500 miles to allow the transmission and clutch to properly break-in. It is not necessary to drain and refill your transmission after the 500 mile break-in period.

We hope you have found this information useful. Feel free to contact Hurst Driveline Conversions if you have questions about your project.

Sincerely,
The Hurst Driveline Conversions Team

Contributing writers:
Jim Goodlad, Hurst Driveline Conversions
Jeff Mortenson, Hurst Driveline Conversions
Scott Lindquist, Hurst Driveline Conversions
Kyle Forster, Tremec Corporation
Jim Averill, Tremec Corporation
Red Roberts, McLeod Industries
Jeff Gilroy, Inland Empire Driveline
Jody Haag, Jody’s Transmissions
Wally Knight, Muncie4speed.com

DISCLAIMER:
These installation notes are a collection of information gathered from the sources listed above as well as from individuals and professional mechanics who have installed these transmissions into various cars. To the best of Hurst Driveline Conversions knowledge, this information is accurate; however it is in no way guaranteed. Further, these notes are provided to help you plan your transmission installation and are to be used as guidelines only. Every car is unique and will represent unique challenges. If your car is not stock, the above guidelines may not apply to your situation. You need to take responsibility for your own installation. When installing your transmission, be sure to follow proper torque & alignment specifications. Also, it is important to follow proper break-in procedures. The contributors to this article are not responsible, in any way, for any damage, financial or otherwise, to you or your vehicle.

All good usefull info Jim, thanks for sharing.

Perfect Jim, thanks for contributing that!

It's also worth noting that Jim and his associate Jeff are class guys, who were out here in the trnaches helping car guys do these conversions years before there were sponsorships and internet advertising.

I pieced mine together mostly from used parts, and tried to figure out the install on my own. when I needed help I called Jim and Jeff, and thier response was immediate and expert, including a saturday phone call and a great deal on a crossmember that actually fit.

I highly recommend a TKO or T56 for any classic car that's actually going to be driven, they are that good, and they make the car that much more fun to drive.
And when I do it again, there's only one place I'd call.

hello please send your details again ive missplaced them
p beartil

What details are missing Paul. I can still read everything.

Very well put together write up Jim! Lots of useful information there for anyone contemplating a TKO or T56 in their 1st Gen. Thanks for posting it up here on FirstGens!