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I picked up a Speed Pro CS-1168R cam from a friend for $25. I know him well, and trust him when he says it only has about 500 miles on it. The lobes all look good (to my untrained eye), and I have no reason to believe that it won't work just fine.

But here's my question: will my engine run like crap with it and my run of the mill 76cc stock heads? I know it would run a lot better with some 64cc heads, but heads aren't an option right now. If it will run decently with the heads I have, I'd like to go ahead and put the cam in while I have all the accessories off of the engine.

Here are the specs on the cam:
Hydraulic camshaft, 2500-6000 RPM Range, 300 intake/308 exhaust Adv Dur, Duration @.050 232 intake/234 exhaust, Valve Lift .488 intake/.488 exhaust, Lobe C/L 108

Thanks!

The heads/compression will not be an issue, U must realise that change a cam...or any 'go' parts, means changing carb tuning and timing advance to suit.
If u want to tone the cam back a little, advance it 2 or 3 degs...but will still need re tuning of the engine.
The big question is.."is that cam matched to what the car is used for?"

Personally I dont like reusing cams...I have done it, many times, on stock and little above stock with no issues...performance engine...no not an option.

Why is he changing his is the big question.

The guy I bought it from is... well, a little older. He said he just wanted a less aggressive cam. If nothing else, I really do trust him. He is good people and would not BS me.

That said, I also plan to swap my vacuum secondary Edlebrock 600 for a Holley 4776, which I have yet to rebuild but is on the to-do list. So, I will have some tweaking to do there at some point.

As for what I'm using the car/engine for, it's just a weekend cruiser; nothing more. Never been to the track, and probably never will be.

As long as you think I'm not going to run into a brick wall trying to get enough vacuum to make the disc brakes work, I can live with that. Should I go for the cam swap while I have all the pulleys, alt, compressor, etc, off?

Read your last post again.. I think u have answered your own question



Why do u think he is swapping out that cam for something a bit less wild


If u have read any of my comments on that subject..you will know thats all BS ...once the low vacuum issue has been thought thru into the real practical world.


No...what is the piont? a cruiser with no bottom end and pig down low, cost a fortune to run...its used so potebntual for future issues...
And what is wrong with the current cam?
Dont fix something that is not broke..
Advice from an "older Bloke" lol

Steps, I don't think there's a single Camaro-related issue I would argue with you advice on. Thanks for the input M8. Will leave the cam for a later date when I have heads for it.

Even with the heads....it still doesnt change theconcept the cam is to wild for the use u intend....always build an engine to fit the use and rpm range of the vechile....If u want a big time bragging rights dont expect such a vechile to meet 99% of what it will be used for.
Dont buy a caterpillar buldozer truck to do the grocery shopping because cant find a parking spot lol

Honestly, even if I never hit the track, I just want to "lope, lope, lope" agressive sound of the cam. Friend had a monster 69 that we wrapped around a telephone pole when we were 16-17years old. 15 years later, all I've ever wanted was to recreate the sound of that cam. Love it.

Well cheat...drop the idle rpms down..that takes care of the idle lop
And when moving like rolling thru a petrol station, slight adjustment to the timing get the lop
And to improve on that, even create that real nice, hate to say ford lop...get rid of the headers (tinky sound) and put a pair of truck rams horns on..which will omprove your cruise/economy substantually.

Better still.. small chamber heads, below stock cam, rams horns, 105 octane fuel(LPG) idles in gear around 400 rpms stable (a charactoristic of LPG) has a slight OH/high octane/nos smell and excellent lop lol
Ig u dump the headers, the ewngine becomes more efficient down low, low idle and off idle becomes far more stable and one can play far more freely with the lop part.

Or a bottom end can with a little more lift and slightly more overlap will do the trick , rams horns etc as above and still be a better cruiser than it is now with that lop.

That's a fairly lazy old style grind. Duration @ 050 isn't all that much. The long advertised duration help bleed off cylinder pressure some, and the combination along with the low lift will give you that lope you want without much if any down side. specs are similar to edelbrocks performer rpm cam, so it should run pretty good too.