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With all of the gear heads here I'm wondering how you guys set the valve lash on your basic flat tappet hydraulic cammed small block. I've tried several methods and the base circle method seemed to work best for me (and simple too) What do you use?
By the way it's:
1) Set the timing mark to 0 TDC #1.

How do you know if you are TDC #1? Well rotate the crank slightly in
both directions and see if either the intake or exhaust push rod of #1
cylinder moves. If it does you are probably TDC #6. Rotate the crank
another 360 degrees and you should be there.

2) Now you can set the following valves:
exhaust - #1, #3, #4, #8
intake - #1, #2, #5, #7

To set the proper valve lash you must set the preload of the lifter.
First you must take the slack out of the lifter, push rod & rocker arm
assembly. Do this by turning the push rod as you tight down the
rocker arm nut. As soon as you "FEEL" some resistance in the push rod
stop tighten the rocker arm nut. Now turn the rocker arm nut down 1/2
to 3/4's (max 1 full turn) of a turn in 1/4 increments. This sets the
preload.

3) Rotate the crank 360 degrees and set the other half of the valves
exhaust - #2, #5, #6, #7
intake - #3, #4, #6, #8

This will work with milder cams &/or stock stuff but I would never use it for any kind of performance work
Simplest way with a performance hyd is to start with #1 cylinder on TDC compression & adj both the intake & exhaust
Adjust to your desired preload
Rotate the engine 90°
Go to the next cylinder in the firing order, adjust both
90° & the next right down the firing order until you are done
I use this with all solid & hyd lifter cams for starters & with the solids I go back & readjust using the EO/IC method
You will usually find a difference due to the loading of the springs on the adjacent lobes
Not much but there is a difference
It also double checks that you did it correctly the first time
In reality it makes little difference which of the two methods you use as long as you are consistent & use the method that is comfortable for you.
Then if you make a change you know you actually did make a change

Also, with reference to solids,,
With alum heads I have found that a small block wants .004 to .005 tight cold & a BB wants .006-.007
When it warms up chances are you will not have to move the things much if at all but you need to check a couple hot to be sure.
Steel heads I adjust the same or a thou or two looser cold

Again whatever method you use be consistent but I advise against using the "factory" method for any performance work.
It will work simply because there is such a wide latitude if adjustment that will work with most hyd lifters but I prefer to know what my preload is.

Another method is adjusting the things running but personally I have not done this in probably 30 years,,
Just do not see the benefit of screwing around with hot oil &/or making a mess.
Once you know how to do it with the engine off it is too simple.

Another note
You want to be very careful about tightening until you feel resistance until you have done this a few times & develop a feel for "resistance".
Better to tighten while feeling for any slop in the rocker or up & down motion in the pushrod, much easier to feel this than rotating resistance in the pushrod especially if you are working with new lifters

I was hoping you'd chime in Mike.
Thanks

I've tried that a couple times Don, and with my old 350 and a milder cam it worked fine. But with the hotter cam in that same 350 and now with my 427 it doesn't really work. I end up going having to go back and readjust a couple individually anyway. So now I just do it one at a time. Sure it takes a little longer at first, but this way I know there all done right and that saves me time in the long run.

for initial setup, I do as Mike said, 1 on tdc, do both, turn 90 and do 8, and run on down the firing order.

I do always rest my hydraulics running.
And no, it doesn't make a mess at all.

And I just have to ask,,,,
Why?
If you adjust them correctly with the engine off what is the reason to go back & do it again running?
Does 1 turn of preload change if the engine is running vs not running?
Like I said, I have not done this in 30+ years ever since I was shown the "error" of my ways

That said if doing them running floats your boat there is certainly nothing wrong with it,, what ever works for you is the correct way as long as the preload ends up where it should

why?

Cause I'm trying to make those noisy hydraulic rollers shut the hell up of course.

So your still having issues with that?
Is it a Comp Extreme cam by chance?