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Hi, I am new to the site and wanted to get your opinions on tubular control arms. I have read many things and have read many reviews on them. Who out there has added upper and lower as well as added a larger sway bar upfront and also added a sway bar on the rear. I have already added multi leaf springs. I just want some feedback on the results of your upgrades. Is there a big difference in handling? I am also running P235/60R15 front and back. Are you happy with the change? Is the handling really improved at all speeds including highway driving?

Thanks
George

I have a 2nd gen which already has better front end geometry and handling compared to a 1st gen so my exsperience is not directly relatable to your car. I also replaced front and rear suspension at the same time so the handling is significantly better but I can't say how much the control arms contibuted to the change but they no doubt did. With that said changing the uppers to tubulars can yeild some positive results. Typical you will be able to be able to make easier changes to the caster which you want as much as is possible. Along with the uppers you should consider the Howe or similar tall ball joint which places the upper at a better angle and provides more camber gain in cornering situations. I choose SPC uppers becasue they provide much more adjustability and do not require the traditional shims between the upper cross shaft and the control arm to make the adjustments. ON the downside the down not have bump stops to limit the downward movement of the suspension as the front of the car rises, I use suspension limiter straps on mine. Another point to mention about adding caster is it moves the tier rearward in the wheel opening so you need to watch tier clearance with the inner wheelhouse at the back.

Going to tubular lowers is for the most part not worth the money unless the geometry of the new lowers has been changed to help the caster settings. The change to the geometry would mean the ball joint is actually moved forward from the factory location. This allows for higher caster settings and puts the wheel back in the center of the wheel opening. Most lower control arms do not alter the geometry at all so there is little or no gain for the money spent. You can do just as well by using the original lowers(maybe with some bracing if you are planninf on autocrossing or serious cornering) and installing a good set of Del-a-Lum bushings in them instead of doing the original rubber bushings.

I have the stock arms that I rebuilt with poly bushings, much better than what they were but I would use the Del-alum if I was doing it now. The main advantage to tubular is as Tom said, better geometry so if it's in the budget get the uppers. A good shop can add more caster to the stock setup and it will work well for all but the most hardcore driving. I also added the Hotchkis lowering springs, shocks and front swaybar to my '69 and I am pretty happy with the way she goes through the twisties. Tom's is a level above me but for a cruiser you rarely get to push it that hard. Eventually Jim will chime in and add his experience to this post.
Glad to have you!

Hi George, welcome to the site. I can't really add much to what these two have said. I'm considering going with the Guldstrand mod on mine to add additional caster and improve camber gain. I'm concerned about moving the wheel in the wheel well as Tom mentioned. I assume you've seen info on this but if not feel free to ask questions.

Welcome George. I did the full boogie on my 68. SC&C adjustable upper arms, same like Tom has. I lucked into some global west lowers for free, really about what they are worth, but they are pretty and the del-a-lum bushings are fabulous. Hotchkiss springs, QA1 shocks, big Addco sway bar.

Car handles very well. It also rides nice, and is squeek and rattle free. Header collectors are 3" off the ground, front crossmemeber 3 1/2"

Here's some pics.

Thanks for the reply. Nice car.I will post some of mine soon. I just purchased the upper and lower and new front and rear sway bars as well. I will post comment after all has been changed.

Thanks
George

Thankyou to all of you that took the time to send a reply.

Toe in at 1/16
Camber at a qtr to a half. I tried 1 degree of camber, it was hell on tires on the street.

Caster pretty much as much as you can get, I got 4 1/2 degrees with the adjustable upper arms.

Oh yea, forgot to mention, I also did the guldstrand mod.
You can see that in the bottom picture.

Is that camber setting postive or negative Jim?

negative.

the pics above were before any alignment was done.