Yes, gotoassist express is what I use. We use it at work, too. It's pretty inexpoensive and works very well, every bit as good as webex, which costs more per month than goto costs per year.
The "base timing" is totally meaningless. What you are "supposed to do" is disconnect a wire going into the distributor to disable the electronic advance completely, and then start the engine, and (with a timing light) physically set the distributor position so the timing light shows the same timing as is entered in the ECU's "timing reference". This is typically 10 degrees BTDC for GM ignitions.
Problems is, the book says to set to this arbitrary 10 degree number, and assume the engine will start, run, warmup, and idle with only (insert either 10 degrees or I DON'T HAVE THE SLIGHTEST IDEA CAUSE I JUST DROPPED THE DIZZY IN AS BEST I COULD AND THIS ENGINE HAS NEVER RUN AND THIS EFI SYSTEM HAS HAD NO TUNING AT ALL!!!) amount of timing in it.
So... I just keep increasing the timing (in a big block of cells in the main timing map, and also in the "advance while cranking" cell in modifiers) Eventually, there enough timing in it so it starts sputtering = need more or starts backfiring = need less. I also increase the "commanded idle speed" to 1500 rpm, increase the IAC parked position a bunch, and physically adjust the throttle stop to give the motor some air.
No different than first fire on a conventional carbed engine. (Except I'm doing it on my laptop, from a thousand miles away!!
)
Add or subtract fuel and timing until the engine will start and run.
Once she's running, get her stable, get her warmed up, and then set the physical timing.
And it just has to agree. If the "TIMING" cell on the computer says 32 degrees, then the timing light needs to say that too, that's all.
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