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Why is there such a wide range of numbers recommended,camber from 1/4- to 1 1/2-,caster from 1 deg. to 5 deg. to as much as you can get,toe from 1/4" in to 0.Whats really the best set up for some spirited cornering and keeping tire wear in check,the car saw maybe 1000 miles in the last year.All stock front end with the G mod done,BFG 215/60r15,I realize increasing camber will increase inside tire wear,but do I want as much caster as I can get or hold it below 5 deg.and do I want the same on both sides or maybe a little a little more caster on the right side?

Ask 10 people a question and you are likely to get 10 different answers/opinions. From what I have read and what I researched when doing my alignment I would would say camber -1/4* to -1/2* for the street and -1* or more for the track, 1/8" toe in and as much caster as possible. Caster helps with centering the steering after a turn and with higher speed stability. From what I have read the amount of caster you can obtain with stock 1st components is limited, maybe 2-3* max before youn run into issues with the back of the tire rubbing the rear of the inner fender. More caster can be obtained with aftermarket components such as lower control arms designed to add more caster. Most likely not worth the cost unless you intend to autocross the car. For some spirited street driving the above specs along with good springs, shocks and tires will be all you will need to enjoy your car. Now you have another opinion to confuse you more!!

Well here's the second opnion. I like zero camber for street use. I don't think that dropping camber negative gives enough benefit to offset the increased tire wear. I feel that -1 camber wears the tire just as much as +1, just the opposite side of the tire. Somewhere on Dave Pozzi's site is a very good explalination why you want to run +5 caster. Tom is right about the wheel centering and the high speed stability when running those numbers. The high caster also affects the camber change while cornering, I can't recall exactly why but it made sense when I read it ofd Pozzi's site. With the Guildstrand mod you should be able to get +5 caster. I would offset the caster by 1/2 degree to compensate for road crown and keep the camber equal on both sides. It can be done with either angle but using caster doesn't wear the tires. I like zero toe with radial tires. Radial tires have less rolling resistance then bias plys and don't deflect the tie rods as much so require less toe. Just my .02!

I ran my car (with the guldstrand mod done) for a pretty long period of time with 1 degree of camber and 1/8" toe in. Had 3 degrees of caster with the front end maxed out. (note, you max out when you can't remove any more shims from the front a-arm bolt)

The car felt really good cornering, quick biting turn-in, felt serious.

But the front tires wore out in 2 years, inside edge gone to nuttin.

With aftermarket a-arms, particularly sc&c adjustable uppers, I was able to get that 5 degrees of camber, and do it with 1/4 degree of camber. Toe down to 1/16" now.

The car feels very stable now. Not as "darty" as before. Still corners very very strong, probably better than before.

I knew that I wouldn't get a firm answer,just curious what the different schools of logic were.I think I'll try it the way I have it now.Toe at 1/8 in,camber at .5 neg.,caster at 5 left and 5.5 right and see how it does,it's not all that time consuming to change it if I want to.

My theory is that the tire needs to be flat on the ground most of the time. When running a road course it needs as much ruubber on the ground as possible when cornering. For street use you're going straight more often and the cornering load is not as high as on the track. In theory zero camber will get you flat on the ground assumming ride height doesn't change from acceleration or cornering.