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 Post subject: Subframe Connectors Installed (Long)
PostPosted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 8:02 am 
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Hey Guys, thougt I would share with you my experiance on this.

After my run to Biloxi last month, I developed a TKO fluid leak thru the speedo cable under the dash. Well a small towel on the floor took care of this for time being. After I returned home some 2k miles later and a few soak towels that was taking the drip, I decided to check this out.
I took a peek at my 6 year old stock rubber frame bushings. I found they were flat again. Further inspection I find the floor pan transmission tunnel lessened.

So in turn the floor tunnel was riding on top of the TKO vent. I felt the closed off vent was not letting the trans pressure to relieve the normal way and forced out fluid at the speedo adapter, thus up the cable to the speedo head. I felt I got that issue stopped.

Then I had to deal with the subframe bushings. Orginals lasted until first pull back in '83, then those lasted up until '97, those replacements were gone by 2001 and those replacements lasted until the Biloxi run.
I then replaced for the first time with Energy Susp poly type. But the question of cowl walk still lingered in my mind and further looking at my floor mount holes told me this is a common occurance.
Ah, stop the movement . So I did . I was in the market for subframe connectors and ran across the CE design but did not like this as tubing thickness was something like .083.
I went a little further in availability and found the Hotchkis bolt on/weld on. I finally got a set drop shipped from Prodigy from Mich.
Following the instructions all seem to just drop in and weld. No such luck on the rear. Seems the rear weld on saddle box is about ¼" too wide in total dimension comparing to rear frame box , just behind the front spring hanger. Instructions say to close this gap somehow. The front of the saddle box is good but the frame tends to go from maybe
2 1/8" to 1 7/8" , front to rear. :frown:
So I c-clamped that larger rear flange in and welded up.

Seems that a company like Hotchkis would see this and weld their side bracket a little closer so this gap would be less. If I would have been more prepared on this, I would have cut that saddle flange off partly and repositioned and rewelded.
I keep hearing guys notice quickly how the car ride changes. Well , owning my car for 40+ years , I have not noticed anything, yet. More long rides are needed as my car rode stiff to start with. No floor sheet metal has ever been replaced , probably due to all the thick undercoating in spray in , 40+ years ago.

So I guess I have to ask, has anyone had the same issues with welding in Hotchkis 4007 connectors?

Anyway, Good Morning. You guys need a long topic here.

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 Post subject: Re: Subframe Connectors Installed (Long)
PostPosted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 8:50 am 
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I've read that the fit on the rear of the Hotchkiss SFC's needs to be "custom fit" to each car. I'm supprised you don't feel a difference in the ride. I've never owned a 1st gen with connectors so I don't have personal experience with this.

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 Post subject: Re: Subframe Connectors Installed (Long)
PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2010 5:42 pm 
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I didn't feel the difference from my connectors either. Now when I rebuilt the suspension and body mounts I felt that. But not from adding the connectors.


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 Post subject: Re: Subframe Connectors Installed (Long)
PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2010 7:12 pm 
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It depends how you're driving. When driving easy I couldn't tell the CE bolt in frame connectors were there. When pusing things hard or on bad roads I could feel a difference.

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 Post subject: Re: Subframe Connectors Installed (Long)
PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2010 8:06 pm 
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Not sure how much stiffness the Hotchkis connector add to a coupe or vert, I went with the DSE connectors and it is a vast improvement. They are weld in and it was probably the biggest improvement for the money so far. They are a high quality well thought out piece and fit great. If someone's looking I'd recommend them.


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 Post subject: Re: Subframe Connectors Installed (Long)
PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2010 9:25 pm 
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I did the same as tim...when you get into big powered motors i didn.t want to take the chance at twisting the car up.Ours rides just fine .
Mark.


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 Post subject: Re: Subframe Connectors Installed (Long)
PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2010 9:57 am 
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1fast69 wrote:
I did the same as tim...when you get into big powered motors i didn.t want to take the chance at twisting the car up.Ours rides just fine .
Mark.


Mark, I agree with you on your car as you could probably twist things up just sitting still , jazzing the throttle. :3gears:

I got a reply from Hotchkis, they said they just fill the gap with weld what ever that means, slag or what ever.
Time and miles will tell me if the new bushing wear out but logic is the front is tied to the rear so stress and cowl walk should be lessened. Seems I never thought too much about engine size being a factor. Just think what these L78 or COPO cars do. Guess I said that L 78 right, bbc car.

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